TOUR PARTICIPANTS GATHERED FROM ALL OVER THE UNITED STATES
Tuesday, December 9
For many of us, our adventure began already at the Brussels Airport as we were warmly welcomed by Belgian Army Adjutant Patrick Brion & Assistant Tour Director Doug Mitchell, as well as Dominique Potier & Erik Grandhenry also of the Belgian Army. Tour Director Patrick Hinchy then greeted us at Bedford Hotel in downtown Brussels.
Veterans and their escorts quickly departed to meet privately with US Ambassador Denise Bauer in her residence. Meanwhile, others rested or walked a short distance to the medieval Grand-Place with its ornate, historic buildings. Just at dark, a spectacular light and music show took place there.
Following a welcome dinner in hotel restaurant, noted British military historian/documentary film maker, Martin King showed, “The Forgotten Angel of Bastogne” – the compelling true story of August Chiwy, a bi-racial Belgian nurse who volunteered selflessly at great personal risk in a US Army aid station in Bastogne during Battle of the Bulge.
Wednesday, December 10
Departed Brussels in two large buses, donated by Belgian Army, for Belgian Army’s Camp Elsenborn in the Ardennes Forest. Elsenborn Ridge formed the blocking line for the northern shoulder of the Battle of the Bulge. A fierce 10-day battle here kept the German line from advancing. One of our veterans shared his experiences at this very location 70 years ago. Next stop was Wereth 11 Memorial, which honors 11 black GI’s executed by German soldiers at that spot in December 1944. A brief ceremony also took place at the Baugnez memorial, site of notorious “Malmedy Massacre” where dozens of American prisoners were murdered by SS-Kampfgruppe of Joachim Peiper. Participants then toured nearby Baugnez44 museum. In the evening we checked into the lovely Radisson Blu Palace Hotel in the charming, historic town of Spa, Belgium where we would stay until 14 Dec.
Thursday, December 11
Today was an extremely busy day. It began with impressive wreath-laying ceremony with color guard, followed by a reception at Stavelot. Mayor Thierry de Bourneville and General Director Jacques Remy-Paquay led the events. Stavelot, scene of heavy fighting, was where over 100 local civilians, including women and children, were murdered by Peiper’s Kampfgruppe.
Next stop was the small but extremely significant town of La Gleize. Here the advance of Peiper’s Kampfgruppe was halted; their rout considered a principal cause of Germany’s ultimate defeat in Battle of the Ardennes. Noteworthy is the German Tiger II tank in the town square. Our group was warmly greeted by Le Magneus deMakeye and moved by the musical tribute by local children singing a song written by Headmaster Marc Mathieu for the occasion.
A highlight of any VBOB tour is a delicious lunch at Auberge du Carrefour at Baraque de Fraiture, known to us as Parker’s Crossroads. Bernadette Lejeune, daughter of the innkeepers who aided members of 106th Inf Div 70 years ago, welcomed us all as family. Denise Ogre and Anne-Marie Noel-Simon of CRIBA made presentations; wreaths were laid at the crossroad’s memorial105mm howitzer. Barely 300 US Troops resisted a German panzer division here for 3 crucial days (“Alamo Defense”) until all but about 50 were killed or taken prisoner.
On our way to La Roche-en-Ardennes, we passed by Ourthe Valley bridge near Houffalize where Third Army and First Army “closed” the Bulge. In La Roche, we toured the 3-story Museum of the Battle of the Ardennes with its unusual displays of American, English, Scottish & German military uniforms and gear. The soup/sandwich reception was much appreciated on this cold, damp day.
Free time in the evening, enabled us to wander the little streets of Spa and try its local eateries, as well as gather as we did most evenings, in little groups to share stories and experiences.
Friday, December 12
At Henri-Chappelle American Cemetery (where nearly 8,000 of our military dead are buried) we were welcomed by Superintendent Bobby Bell and US Embassy representative Marc Storella. A stirring “Soldier’s Poem” was read by Mathilde Schmetz. After the ceremonies, electric carts were available for those wishing to brave the snowy weather to pay respects at specific graves.
Another must stop on VBOB tours is M&M’s “Remember Museum” located on the farm where Marcel Schmetz was a young boy during the Battle of the Bulge. He and his lovely wife, Mathilde graciously opened their home and hearts to us, sharing their remarkable stories and collections of artifacts, many of which were left behind by GIs camped on the farm as they fled advancing Germans in 1944. This museum is unique in its huge compilation of individual soldier’s accounts (each of which Mathilde can recite with love), photographs and very personal donated memorabilia. Marcel actually and builds and creates every single display.
For those not yet ready to return to the hotel, a visit to the old city of Aachen, first German city to fall to the Allies, with its beautiful, centuries old Dom Cathedral and huge, festive Christmas Market topped off the day.
Saturday, December 13
The strategic, multi-crossroads town of Bastogne, on a cold, snowy day – how appropriate! This was “Nuts Days” – the annual celebration of General McAuliffe’s famous reply to the German demand that he surrender the totally surrounded town. Military re-enactors throughout town, tanks and jeeps firing up everywhere! Following lunch in the old Bastogne Barracks mess, our veterans were honored at a reception at the 101st Airborne Museum hosted by Helen Patton, granddaughter of General Patton. A ceremony and wreath laying followed at the Patton Monument, with our veterans front and center.
Opportunity for a private meeting with King Philippe and Queen Mathilde of Belgium was provided to the veterans. To their surprise, they also had their pictures taken with Tom Brokaw who was delighted to meet veterans of the Greatest Generation. The rest of us took in further sights in Bastogne. Some of us even shook the hand of King Phillip as he walked past in the parade. We joined throngs waving American and Belgian flags who gathered in front of the Town Hall and we were thrilled to catch a traditional bag of walnuts thrown from the balcony by the Belgian royalty and other dignitaries.
[Note: at least one of our veterans and perhaps family members should share their experiences of visiting the King and Queen]
One touching story: an elderly Belgian lady waited hours in the snowy cold simply to give a red rose to each of our veterans. Though we did not share a common language, her beautiful act of honor and remembrance left us all deeply moved.
Sunday, December 14
Flag of Friendship Ceremony at 106th Infantry Division HQ monument in St. Vith honored four present “Golden Lions”: David Bailey, Dick Lockhart, Herb Sheaner, and Barney Mayershohn. Ceremony was dedicated to veteran Floyd Ragsdale who expected to attend but sadly passed away just days before the trip. An honor guard from Spangdahlem AFB supported the event, while Chaplain Randall gave the invocation and Mayor Christian Krings welcomed vets. The recipients of 2014 Flag of Friendship award were Marcel and Mathilde Schmetz who, in their M&M Remember Museum, perpetuate the history of Battle of the Bulge soldiers.
St. Vith honored the veterans and guests at the Mayor’s reception at nearby Hotel Pip-Margraff.
A convoy of WWII military vehicles (few of us braved the cold to ride in an open jeep) then accompanied our tour buses, following the path of retreat to Vielsalm. On the way, a lunch stop was made at the unique Rodter Biermuseum, displaying thousands of beer bottles from all over the world.
The military convoy continued to Vielsalm-Rencheux for ceremony at C-47/82Airborne multi-divisional monument. Tribute is paid here to the defenders and crossers of the Rencheux Bridge, where15, 000 soldiers crossed the river to form a new line of defense and later returned to liberate the town. Purely by chance the adult granddaughter of a deceased veteran was visiting this site. Dignitaries honored her as well as the veterans present, a deeply moving scene for all.
Almost 70 years to the day after German forces broke through Allied lines and surrounded the tiny town of Clervaux, local dignitaries, in their 12th century castle where Allied forces had stubbornly held out as long as they could, hosted a reception for returning Veterans of the Battle of the Bulge. An impressive photo exhibit by the renowned photographer Tony Vaccaro was the backdrop. A ceremony took place at their unique statue – on of few dedicated simply to the American GI. It was a raw, chilly evening and the warm blankets thoughtfully provided to our veterans once again by Patrick Brion were most welcome.
During dinner at Hotel Koerner, a Veterans of the Greatest Generation tour sat with us and most lively conversations ensued. Finally, we had to board buses for The Grand Hotel Alfa in Luxembourg City.
Monday, December 15
Following a brief, but excellent Battle of the Bulge film by Patrick Brion, veterans participated in a Q &A session with high school students at the Lycee Classique De Diekirch. Lunch at Beau Sejour Restaurant was a treat. Several re-enactors were present at our visit to Roland Gaul’s impressive National Museum of Military History, with its huge amount of original artifacts and exquisitely detailed dioramas portraying significant events of the Battle of the Bulge. A few of us also enjoyed strolling through Diekirch’s pleasant, holiday decorated pedestrian center.
On Christmas Day 1944, in the tiny town of Ettelbruck, General Patton stopped the German offensive into Luxembourg’s Alzette Valley. The newly re-opened Patton Museum there displays photos and artifacts from the period of German occupation and the celebration of its liberation by Patton’s army.
A delightful change of pace, hosted by Helen Patton, was a nostalgic performance by the Andrew Sisters-style Spitfire Sisters singing swing songs of ‘40s. Many music fans stayed on to enjoy Thomas Blug Allstars’ rock and roll homage to the Greatest Generation.
Tuesday, December 16
Veterans were invited for audience with Grand Duke Henri and Grand Duchess Maria Teresa of Luxembourg in the Grand-Ducal Palace. The rest of the group enjoyed an official guided walking tour through parts of historical Luxembourg City.
[Note: at least one of our veterans and perhaps family members should share their experiences of visiting the Duke and Duchess]
Today’s official 70th Anniversary Battle of the Bulge commemorations began with a joint government of Luxembourg and the US Embassy ceremony held, under tents due to inclement weather, at Luxembourg-American Cemetery, Hamm. Speakers included His Excellency Mr. Xavier Bettel, Commander US Army Europe General Ben Hodges and Commander USAFE General Frank Gorenc. Also present were HRH Grand Duke Henri, President of Luxembourg Parliament Mars Di Bartolomeo, members of the Luxembourg Parliament /Government and US Ambassador Robert A. Mandell. School children, with veterans, poignantly placed 70 roses.
The playing of several European national anthems emphasized the unification theme of ceremonies at the National Liberation Monument, Schumann’s Eck, site of another of the war’s bloodiest battles. About 30 Battle of the Bulge veterans were present, along with many dignitaries. One wreath was touchingly laid by an American veteran together with a German veteran.
A grand finale dinner, offered by the Luxembourg government in the Grand Hotel Alfa, was enjoyed by all. A keyboard artist, member of Luxembourg Military Band provided 40’s background music.
Wednesday, December 17
Time to return to Hotel Bedford in Brussels. We’d come full circle. Evening ended with Farewell Dinner with the Belgian Army in Peutie Barracks. An extraordinary surprise event took place: Veteran Clayton Christiansen received his Bronze Star and Purple Heart (with his Silver Star forthcoming). It was also announced that Veteran George Merz would be receiving France’s highest decoration – the Legion of Honor award. It was an unforgettable event – few dry eyes!
Thursday, December 18
Our last ride on the comfortable Belgian Army buses with their outstanding drivers, Kurt Gordt and Dirk Van deVelde, brought many of us through rush hour traffic to Brussels International Airport for our flights back to the US. Several veterans pledged to return for the 75th Anniversary in 5 years – and I believe these intrepid, inspirational gentlemen just might do it!
Our ten veterans were overwhelmed by their “rock star” status, even those who had experienced prior trips. All of us were fascinated as their stories unfolded at various locations of special meaning to them. Second & third generation family members who had heard about the unbelievable welcome by the people of Belgium and Luxembourg were often moved to tears to witness it in person. What a treasure of memories – some life changing! Even those of us traveling to honor deceased veterans were overcome with emotion several times a day.
Deep appreciation goes to the many folks without whom this trip could not have happened: Veterans of the Battle of the Bulge Association Council, especially Doug Dillard, John Bowen, Al Cunningham and Doris Davis; Adjutant Patrick Brion and his Belgian Army team; Tour Director Patrick Hinchy; local team of Doug Mitchell, Carl Wouters, CRIBA, SEBA and many local community officials, and MilSpec, Inc. which handled fees – and, of course, our valued veterans who provided the “why” of the whole trip!
You are encouraged to view the many photos and stories available on line at the Veterans of the Bulge website: https://www.battleofthebulge.org/?page_id=15
Submitted by Madeleine Bryant, Associate
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